The relationship between the country and its food can be described as a window of insight into the nature. The cuisine of this country is an expression of culture that has never had to worry about existence or development. Figuring out what the Chinese love to eat and how they eat it is a shortcut to understanding China. Guangdong’s favorite dim sum is literally “touching the soul”, so we should say that food is the door to the soul of the Han Chinese.
Mengniu, Yili (the dairy company) and COFCO (everything from chocolate to pork) dominate most food types. Despite Chinese enthusiasm for unique Western flavors – noodles are the most popular, followed by burgers – we still don’t understand why the Chinese refuse to accept Western food, is it simply because it comes from the West? Western companies have been slow to enter China, and have made a series of mistakes. Kellogg’s, for example, once introduced an unfamiliar product to the market – cold water cereal – at a surprisingly high price. But there have been some outstanding successes, from Kraft and Nestle to Dove and Coca-Cola, brands that have developed products specific to Chinese tastes. Some excellent recent products – Lipton milk tea, Danone calcium cookies and Pizza Hut seafood couple’s pizza – are examples of emotional and heartfelt commitment. Yum’s KFC’s localization initiatives are particularly eye-catching. Spicy chicken wings and chicken burgers sell best, but its menu also includes Old Beijing chicken rolls, golden butterfly shrimp, seasonal vegetable salad, mushroom and rice and tomato and egg soup.
Here are a few basic principles for marketing food in China
Balanced nutrition. Chinese cooking is extremely complex: Shanghai cuisine is sweet and greasy; Sichuan cuisine is numb and spicy, but the harmony between yin (cold) and yang (heat) is the constant law. From dry-fried beef to sweet and sour pork, dishes must be “in harmony” with each other. Yin foods are not necessarily cold, such as sliced bread, bean sprouts, cabbage, radish, cucumber, duck, tofu, broccoli and water. Yang foods include bamboo shoots, beef, chicken, eggs, ginger, glutinous rice, mushrooms, and sesame oil. China will never have a coffee culture because the drink should be cooled and consumed, but the Nescafe 3-in-1 breaks this barrier because the sweetness inside neutralizes the bitterness. Disorders of yin and yang can lead to illnesses. “Hot” illnesses (such as headaches and bleeding) can be treated with yin foods, while “cold” illnesses (such as runny eyes and night sweats) should be treated with yang foods. The Chinese are not averse to lactose, but many foods, including ice cream, are considered to be too “damp”. Even today, if milk is sold with some “dry” foods, such as cereal, it sells very well.
There is no concept of safety. Contrary to our preconceived notions, international brands are more popular than local brands, even though the taste and price of the latter products are more in line with local needs. This is because the Chinese do not believe in the safety of local products. Before the dairy scandal broke in 2009, local dairy products were considered synonymous with purity. But producers colluded with local officials to adulterate their products with illegal ingredients, undermining that trust. That’s why the best-selling infant formulas on the market are foreign brands, even though their prices reach 400 percent of those of local products. It also explains why everything from toothpaste to orange juice is seeking recognition from agencies below the central government, such as the National Dental Defense Organization.
Protection is king. The Chinese fear of spreading elements has led to the emergence of a wide variety of germicidal products, including soaps (Shu Shujian), toothpastes (Colgate, Crest, Zhonghua), mouthwashes (Lister), air conditioners (Midea), and even dishwashers (Xiaotianwan). Therefore, it is no wonder that products promoting the concept of “immunity” have become very popular. Infant formula is also an example, each brand of milk powder has to highlight its ability to resist diseases, so that it can win in the market. The effect on physical changes is not as much of a concern, as the “tall, strong” baby is not the public expectation, and all mothers want their children to be “as normal as possible”. Emotional protection is also important. Breakfast must be hot and soft; nutrients are lost as the food cools. The Chinese don’t exercise before lunch, so cold cereal is bound to be on the back burner, and Special K is a source of energy for women.
The quest for excellence. Once safety was assured, food became a weapon in the competition of life. First of all, nutrition represents academic achievement, and food energy is directly related to intelligence, concentration and resourcefulness and responsiveness. Calcium not only strengthens the bones, but also the mind. In a society where it’s either you or me, the deciding factor between victory and defeat is a resourceful mind, not a strong body. Second, convenience foods are the way to accomplish this, and they provide the energy you need to sweep through everything every day. So, your beloved food actually has benefits; it’s a pill wrapped in sugar. Third, the transformative effects of food are heating up in established markets. One category in particular, supplemental nutrition in cities, is said to enable seniors to excel on the basketball court and in the office.
In a competitive business world, tasty food can foster trust and business agreements between parties. In the intimate private rooms of a Chinese restaurant, partnerships are put to the test around round tables. Dishes are carefully arranged. Proper seating arrangements must be respected, with the guest of honor facing the door of the room and the host at the side for company. It is a breach of etiquette to serve yourself a dish too early, and you may not leave your seat before the fruit plate is served.
Preferences in the family. Travel guides to any city in China impress that the Chinese are brave enough to explore the culinary arts. Shanghai has enough types of restaurants to rival any American or European city: Mexican, Italian, Japanese restaurants, Western breakfasts, French flavors, Johnny Walker gatherings, flashy clubs, bars …… The list is endless. But deep down, the Chinese are quite resistant to foreign food and flavors. They don’t like innovation when it comes to returning home, a haven isolated from the colorful world outside. Pizza Hut’s delivery calls come from the office, and few families are willing to consume them. You can’t buy freshly ground coffee anywhere else but Starbucks. There are Italian restaurants in every city, but few families go to enjoy spaghetti. The reason people pay the extra expensive price is to demonstrate a cosmopolitan mindset, which is why Haagen-Dazs retail stores are so hot, but no one uses it to entertain guests at home. Step it up again, the world is a big stage.
